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There is a LOT of bad information out there on just what it takes to convert your 05-10 Mustang or 07-10 GT500 to the electric power steering system found in th 2011+ S197.

Let's clear up the swap from a company that has been doing this conversion for years!  

The mechanical conversion is a simple bolt in deal, remove your old steering rack and components, bolt in the new EPAS from from a 13/14 Mustang (more on the year choice later).

No welding, no fabricating, no extra tune changes, bolt in and go.  The 2011+ electric rack has a 3rd mounting point that Ford later discontinued because it is simply not needed.  We leave this alone, don't worry about adding an anchor point for the mount or needing to bolt it  down.  Already have a newer version K member in your 3v Mustang that has the mount?  Bolt it down, no worries either way.  

If you are not satisfied to leave that mounting point without a bolt it is simple enough to drill a hole in OEM K-member and add a bolt from your local hardware store.

Choosing a rack: only use 2013-2014 take off racks or the FRPP aftermarket rack pre programmed for performance applications.  The 11 model year and some 2012 steering racks had a known software issue called "nibbling" that caused the steering wheel to shake in corners.  In 2012 Ford revised the EPAS software to address the issues with nibbling.  The only model year exception is the Boss rack, they do not have any nibbling issues to report.  Users report success with updated 11/12 racks, but there is no way to tell if your used rack has had this update.

The 07-10 GT500 conversion requires a few parts you can get from Ford to replace the power steering pump as well as the belt from the 11+ GT500.  You will need the idler pulley bracket, idler pulley, and 4 bolts.  We will eventually include these in our 07-10 GT500 EPAS conversion kits.

Idler Support: BR3Z-8A653-A

Idler Pulley: YW7Z-8678-AA

Pulley Bolt: W707288-S437

Bracket Bolts x3: W500310-S437

Gates Belt: K060842

Belt Routing in the 05-10 Mustang GT requires eliminating two idler pulleys and using a shorter belt, the routing is just a modified version of the original belt routing.

Gates Belt: KO60670 for stock serpentine with AC

Gates Belt: K061187 for use with Roush superchargers and possibly (unconfirmed) DOB/Whipple/KB set ups with AC 

Wiring used to be a huge pain, you had to purchase a complete engine harness from Ford, strip it down, then build a swap harness out of it only to have to then cut into PCM or ABS wiring to access the CAN Bus system for the steering rack to work.

Other harnesses available use a CAN stimulator instead of tying int the CAN Bus which means the rack can only be one speed, the same level of assist all the time.  Full assist all the time makes the rack either feel too heavy or over boosted depending on what you're doing with the car, but can work as a solution when aftermarket engine management is used.  The other major downside is these harnesses do not come with wiring for the power and ground, so in the end you still need a companion harness to power the rack.

One of the biggest advantages to the RaceCar Services method is tapping into the vehicle's CAN Bus system and giving the EPAS module access to the information it needs to make decisions related to variable assist.  This means the EPAS rack can provide full variable assist related to what the vehicle is doing just like the OEM intended.

The RaceCar Services harness is 100% plug and play and made to OEM standards from OEM suppliers.  Bolt it in, plug it in, drive the car!  That's it, a couple hours swapping steering systems and running the harness and you're done.  A Saturday project for most enthusiast.